Journeys in Japan

Tsuruoka: Gastronomy Rooted in Tradition

Tsuruoka lies on the Sea of Japan coast of Yamagata Prefecture. In 2014, it was named a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, the first of its kind in the country. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, American chef David Wells visits the Tsuruoka area to observe how the local people are keeping alive their food culture, protecting their heirloom crops and continuing traditional practices — such as a 400-year-old slash-and-burn farming method that creates a sustainable cycle linking the mountain and forests with the rivers and sea. David also climbs a peak in the sacred Dewa Sanzan area, where he is served dishes prepared from the wild plants that grow on the slopes. And he is introduced to the spirit of uketamau — reverence for nature, gratitude for its bounty, and acceptance of things as they are.